Angela's Signature Quilting: I do not accept the following quilt tops

Borders can sometimes be tricky. Everyone wants a quilt that lays as flat as possible. But over the years I've come to realize that more people have problems with their borders than any other aspect of their quilt top construction.

I've had customers bring me quilts where their borders are so warped that it looks like they added an outer ruffle on their quilt instead of a border.

Some folks think that the quilting will take care of their ruffled borders.

Quilting does not fix construction problems. The only person that can fix that is you the quilter.

If your willing to invest in good fabrics and the cost for machine quilting, then why skimp on the construction of your quilt. If something doesn't sew together right, take it out and redo it, or figure out what's wrong and make it right. You will be much happier with your finished quilt and more enthusiastic about showing it off.

Beautiful, flat borders begin with squared up blocks and sashing. When blocks and sashing is squared up before you sew them together then most likely your borders will go on much nicer.

Never measure the edge of a quilt to know what length your border should be. Always measure about 10 to 15 inches inside the edge of the quilt to get a more accurate measurement for your border. Then cut the border length to that exact measurement and pin border to the edge of your quilt pinning at top and bottom first and then easing in the rest by pinning at regular intervals.

Never pull on your fabric while sewing the border on, this can warp the border. Never iron your quilt or iron your borders using a scrubbing motion, this will warp the fabric too.

I hope this advice will help you in the future with your borders and the overall construction of your quilt.

When I first started making quilts over 20 years ago, I,.. like everyone else, was instructed to press seams to one side.
After I became a long arm machine quilter, I started to see a problem with this method of pressing.

It created larger than desirable lumps especially where many seems come together at one point.
I cannot quilt through these lumps, I have to quilt around them.
So I started realizing that pressing seams open and flat greatly reduced these lumps. The quilt layed flatter and the quilting was much easier because I didn't have to keep dodging these lumps.
Some people argue that seams pressed open weaken the seam and leave it more vulnerable. This is not so if the quilt is being professionally machine quilted. The stitches in machine quilting are much stronger and tighter compared to hand quilting.
And if you use an average to short stitch length while sewing your quilt top together that strengthens the seam as well.

Now that we are in the modern age of machine quilting, it's ok to change a twenty year old method and bring it up to date.

Don't take my word for it, test it out yourself and see what you think!

Just because a fabric has a well known label on the bolt, it doesn't necessarily mean that it is going to quilt up nicely.

Most good quality cottons that you get at quilt shops are great for your quilt tops and for backing material,

However, .....sometimes I've had customers bring me backing fabric that is very poor quality. An untrained eye may not notice the difference in the quality of a fabric, even though the purchase was at a good quilt shop. It's not the quilt shop owners fault, it trickles back down to the cotton mills and the textile companies.

So how do you know if you come across a poor quality fabric?

Well, do what I do, I feel the fabric, and even hold it up to the light to see how tight the weave is. If you see more open weave, then it has a less than desirable thread count.

Does the fabric feel slick or almost glossy on the surface, like a polished cotton. If so this is not a good choice.

Does the fabric have a good weight to it. Does it feel substantial or does it feel light as a feather and wimpy.

You want to choose a good quality fabric that feels good, and has a decent thread count.

The following backing fabrics I do not accept for quilting.

-Batiks

-Polished Cottons

-Poly/Cottons

-Stretch Knits

-Polar Fleece

Monday, December 22, 2008

I do not accept the following quilt tops

Tee shirt quilts or any quilts with stretch knit fabrics.
Denim quilts made from heavy jeans or any heavy weight fabrics.
Quilts with applique that has been applied with thick fusible webbing, it's like quilting through cardboard.
Quilts with severe construction problems like: blocks that puff up and do not lay flat, warped quilts, warped borders. Warped quilts are difficult to even load on the machine, it is best to fix these problems before you bring me your quilt top.
Batik backings, I have found that every time I do a quilt with batik backing fabric it throws a wrench in the tension on my machine and can take hours and hours to get the tension back to normal. I think this is due to the nature of the fabric. I've had problems with other fabrics as well, like polished cottons.
Backing fabric that is poly/cotton

Angela's Signature Quilting

Tips on Borders

Pressing Matters

Backing Fabrics

Monday, December 22, 2008

I do not accept the following quilt tops

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